Important Workshop Details

 Please try to bring a complete machine, or at minimum one with a bobbin, shuttle (if your machine uses one), and a spare needle will be helpful too. If you are missing slide plates or some other part that isn't critical to the machine's operation, we can work around that. Let us know beforehand and, if at all possible, we will order and have the part you need.

Please let us know as soon as you have registered what machine you have and what is missing. I will do my best to locate the needed part(s) and have it with me at the time of the workshop. I cannot promise I will get them, as many parts have been out of production for decades. I do have many parts machines though and may be able to bring what you need.

There are several vendors who carry lots of parts for more common machines and we try to bring a lot of that stuff with us.  For parts we don't keep, my personal recommendation is our friends at https://store.woodlandquiltworks.com/ for a large selection of antique and vintage sewing machine parts.

We are often asked about bringing treadle or hand crank machines, and of course they are welcome! Please don't bring treadle cabinets though as space is limited.

 This workshop is primarily for older machines. We also have some who want to convert a machine to a hand crank during the workshop and that is fine too. We try to keep plenty of hand cranks with us. If you need a spoked handwheel for the conversion, please let us know ahead of time. Although we try to keep two or three of those, we do run out occasionally when someone suddenly buys all we have.  Giving us a heads-up that you are going to want one will prompt us to hold on to one just in case.

Yes, it says Moron Parts because that is the way "more on" is pronounced here in KY. ;-)
We will have on hand (provided our suppliers ship orders in a timely manner) things like pedals, new universal motors, cord assemblies, bobbin winder rings, tension springs, spool pins, and other parts that fit a variety of machines. We also keep some of the more common slide plates like the Singer 66/99 and 27/127. Some parts that are specific to only a single model or parts for less common machines (like old Whites or Nationals for example), we might just happen to have it but don't bet on it. Ask ahead of time.

Although the workshop curriculum is designed primarily for domestic machines, there are many industrial-class machines that are  that are just over-sized machines built like their smaller siblings (such as the Singer 96 or 34). "Industrial" isn't the issue, it is that some specialty machines are very complicated and take more time than is available in a 2-day workshop. If you wish to bring an industrial, please bring one that you are somewhat comfortable with taking apart and reassembling. With 10 other people, I can't ignore all the others because of one very complicated machine that is taken apart and the take-aparter can't remember how to put it back together. I'm fine with helping because that is what I am there for, but I can't spend half of the 2nd day figuring out how to reassemble an unfamiliar machine that I didn't take apart. It is a bit unfair to the others in the group. :-)

We find that more participants fear this part the most, yet learn the most and gain the most confidence during this part of the workshop. Taking her apart, learning ways to remember where the parts came from, learning proper screwdriver selection and use, and some fun ways of freeing up the frozen!

We have found that one of the best methods available to removed rust is Evaporust. It is non-toxic and removes rust quickly and efficiently so the workshop doesn't stall waiting on slower methods. We will cover some other methods if time allows (and debunk some useless ones). We do not use Coke, vinegar, or other corrosive methods that remove rust but also damage the metal that is not rusty. Counter-productivity is not something we encourage. :-)

We will use several different products to clean your machine depending on what part we are cleaning and its condition. We use denatured alcohol and other solvents, Brasso, lots of Gojo, and other products that I have found over the years to be not only effective but SAFE on machines and decals. We do not use Gojo on all machines! The method of cleaning is specific to each machine and we care about the safety of your machine! We will show you how to assess a machine and decide which method is safe for that specific machine.

The question I am most asked is, "How do you get your machines so shiny?" Well, you will learn how to make everything shine, from that dull paint to that rusted hand wheel, down to each individual screw head. Although the most time-consuming part of the workshop, this is where your machine actually begins to show her true potential.  When I clean and polish a machine for myself though, it takes many more hours than we will have in the workshop. The likelihood of leaving with every piece super-shiny isn't great, however a lot depends on how hard you want to work at it. We try to get the hard stuff done in the workshop and then, when you get home, you'll be able to remove and polish what you might not get to in the workshop.

As we begin to put her back together, we detail each piece and be sure it looks as good as it can (as time allows). Each individual part of your machine has the potential to make or break the final appearance. Even if your machine goes together easily, you will learn a great deal from the other machines in the room as we call attention to issues and solve the problem as a group.

Tweaking, adjusting, and making her sew. Since the tensioners and other major parts have been removed and replaced, we must work through issues to make her sew again. Without the use of manuals, we will time the machine, set the needle correctly, learn how to thread a machine by just knowing a couple easy to remember tips, and (once we have made a stitch) adjust her to sew like new!